19p-3sc on the right leg, 6 Ch, now take the left leg and start knitting from the remaining untied stitches 12sc on the left leg, 6sc after ch, 9sc on the right leg.
20p- 3sc, 6sc on ch, 3sc, (inc, 1sc) х3., 12sc- (3sc on the left leg + 6sc along the chain from ch, + 3sc on the right leg = 12sc)., (1sc, inc) X3 = 42p
After row 20, the thread should be in the center of the right leg, behind.
About the wire.
Twist two wires from the legs together, but twist only the length of the body plus the neck, in the head two wires should be separate.
21r-22r-42sc (2 rows)
23р-4sc, inch6., (incavki for priests), 12sc, (inc, 1sc) x6., (Increments for tummy), 8sc = 54p
24p-26r-54sc (3rd row)
27p- (8sc, inc) x6 = 60p
28p-60sc
29p-5sc, inc, (9sc, inc) х5,4sc = 66p
30r-37r-66sc (8 rows)
38p-40sc, (dec, 1sc) x6., 8sc = 60p decreases in the middle of the tummy
39p-60sc
40p-35sc, (dec, 1sc) x6., 7sc = 54p decreases in the middle of the tummy
41r-43r-54sc (3 rows)
44p- (3sc, dec) x6., 24sc = 48p
We begin to stuff the body and then, as the body knits, continue stuffing.
45r-46r- 48sc
47p- (6sc, dec) X6 = 42p
48p-42sc
49p- (5sc, dec) x6 = 36p
50p-36sc
51p- (4sc, dec) x6 = 30p
52p-30sc
53p- (3sc, dec) x6 = 24p
54p-24sc
55p- (2sc, dec) x6 = 18p
56p-18sc
57p- (1sc, dec) x6 = 12p
58p-12sc
59p- (dec) x6 = 6p
Finish and fasten. Leave a long thread to attach the head.
Head
Start crocheting with the loop ring. 6 sc into the ring
2p-6inc = 12p
3p- (1sc, inc) х6 = 18p
4p- (2sc, inc) х6 = 24p
5p- (3sc, inc) x6 = 30p
6p- (4sc, inc) x6 = 36p
7p- (5sc, inc) x6 = 42p
8p- (6sc, inc) x6 = 48p
9p- (7sc, inc) x6 = 54p
10p- 11p-54sc (2 rows)
12p- (7sc, dec) x6 = 48p
13p- (6sc, dec) x6 = 42p
14p- (5sc, dec) x6 = 36p
15p- (4sc, dec) x6 = 30p
16p- (3sc, dec) x6 = 24p
17p- (2sc, dec) x6 = 18p
18p- (1sc, dec) x6 = 12p
19p- (dec) x6 = 6p
Finish the head. Leave a long thread for sewing.
Arms (make two)
1p-6sc in MR
2p-inc x6 = 12p
3p- (1sc, inc) X6 = 18p
4p- (2sc, inc) X6 = 24p
5p-8p-24sc (4 rows)
9p- (2sc, dec) x6 = 18p
10p-11p-18sc (2 rows)
12p- (1sc, dec) x6 = 12p
Fill the palm, but very weakly, so that later you can pull on it to tighten the fingers.
13p-30p-12sc (18 rows)
Now you need to cut off a piece of wire so that it sticks out of the handle by 1.5-2 cm longer, but insert the wire only after tightening your fingers.
Flatten the palm and embroider two stitches for the fingers, slightly tightening. Fill the handle a little.
Muzzle (from finishing yarn)
3 Ch
We knit in rotary rows, at the end of each row we make Ch.
We start with the second loop of the chain.
1p-inc x2 = 4sc Ch turn
2p-inc, 2sc, inc = 6sc Ch turn
3p-inc, 4sc, inc = 8sc Ch turn
4p-inc, 6sc, inc = 10sc Ch turn
5p-inc, 8sc, inc = 12sc Ch turn
6p-inc, 10sc, inc = 14sc Ch turn
7p-16p-14sc (10 rows) Ch turn
17p-dec, 10sc, dec = 12sc Ch turn
18p-dec, 8sc, dec = 10sc Ch turn
19p-dec, 6sc, dec = 8sc Ch turn
20p-dec, 4sc, dec = 6sc Ch turn
21p-dec, 2sc, dec = 4sc Ch turn
22p-dec x2 = 2sc without turning, tie the entire muzzle around the perimeter with 2 rows of sc.
Ears (make two)
1p-6sc in MR
2p-inc x6 = 12p
3p- (1sc, inc) X6 = 18p
4p- (2sc, inc) X6 = 24p
5p- (3sc, inc) X6 = 30p
6p-9p-30sc (4 rows)
Fold the ear in half and tie the bottom edge in two layers with 15sc.
Inner Eyelet (from finishing yarn) 2 parts
9 Ch
Knit in pivoting rows, at the end of the row do Ch.
We start knitting from the second loop of the chain.
1p-3p-8sc (3 rows) Ch turn
4p-dec, 4sc, dec = 6sc Ch turn
5p-dec, 2sc, dec = 4sc thread break
Sew the eyelet neatly into the main ear. The inner eyelet can be cut out of fabric.
Belly Pad (from finishing yarn) 1 piece
1p-6sc in MR
2p-inc x6 = 12p
3p- (1sc, inc) x6 = 18p
4p- (2sc, inc) X6 = 24p
5p- (3sc, inc) X6 = 30p
6p- (4sc, inc) X6 = 36p
Break the thread.
Assembly
Before starting the assembly, you need to comb all the parts. Use a slicker or Velcro to do so carefully to avoid changing the shape of the parts.
Colored pins can be inserted in the center of the tummy and the center of the head to help with orientation when assembling. This will also help in making the bear symmetric.
You can immediately sew the patch on the tummy, which will help you determine the center of the bear’s shape.
Sew on the muzzle, but be sure to add filler (but not too much), so that the muzzle slightly protrudes forward. Position it slightly downward, from row 65 (or about 6 rows from the neck).
Sew on the ears. The bear’s head is not round, so there are places for the ears to be positioned.
Make a small eye tighten. Insert the needle behind the head at the neck and pull it through to the first eye. Tighten slightly, then return to the neck, pull through to the second eye, and tighten slightly again. This will deepen the eyes evenly.
Choose the nose and eyes at your discretion, but it is better that the nose is not too small (2.5 cm is ideal). If you can’t find a suitable nozzle, you can easily make one from plastic or fabric, or use a button and cover it with cloth.
Place the eyes just above the muzzle and very close to each other.
Stick the arms with the protruding wire into the body at the sides, around rows 49-50. Make sure the arms are symmetrical.
Sew on the tummy on the most convex part and add a drop of filler.
Embroider a smile and eyebrows. For the smile, use a single thread so it’s subtle, and for the eyebrows, use two threads. You can also embroider the fingers and toes.
You can tint the bear a little, such as on the cheeks and eyebrows.
Cut several threads from the main yarn, string them on the crown of the head (where the last loops were closed), and cut to the desired length. Fluff the threads to create a forelock.
The bear can also be made with a felted muzzle and nose, with plastic eyes, and sewn-on patches.
