Toph Dog Free Pattern

 

Materials:

• 2.2mm crochet hook
• Silicone fiber (stuffing)
• Pins
• Slicker brush
• Safety eyes, 11 mm, black
• Nose 2.0
• Large tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Amigurumi soft yarn
• Liquid silicone glue

Abbreviations:

• carr: row
• am: magic ring
• pb: single crochet
• aum: increase
• dim: decrease
• corr: chain stitch
• pbx: slip stitch

Head:

1. Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. Row 2: 6 inc (12)
3. Row 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x6 (18)
4. Row 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x6 (24)
5. Row 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x6 (30)
6. Row 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) x6 (36)
7. Row 7: (5 sc, 1 inc) x6 (42)
8. Row 8: (6 sc, 1 inc) x6 (48)
9. Rows 9-18: 36 sc (10 rows)

Place the eyes between rows 13 and 14, 9 sc apart, leaving 7 visible.

19. Row 19: (6 sc, 1 dec) x6 (42)
20. Row 20: (5 sc, 1 dec) x6 (36)
21. Row 21: 18 dec (18)
22. Start stuffing.
23. Row 22: (1 sc, 1 dec) x6 (12)
24. Finish stuffing.
25. Row 23: 6 dec (6)

Close with an invisible finish and weave in the yarn.

Ears:

1. Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. Row 2: 6 inc (12)
3. Row 3: 12 sc (1 row)
4. Row 4: (1 sc, 1 inc) x6 (18)
5. Rows 5-11: 18 sc (7 rows)
6. Row 12: (1 sc, 1 dec) x6 (12)
7. Row 13: 12 sc (1 row)

Join the sides with 5 sc, leave yarn for sewing, and cut.

Snout:

1. Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. Row 2: 6 inc (12)
3. Row 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x6 (18)
4. Row 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x6 (24)
5. Row 5: 24 sc (1 row)

Leave yarn for sewing and cut. Insert the nose between rows 3 and 4.

Body:

1. Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. Row 2: 6 inc (12)
3. Row 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x6 (18)
4. Row 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x6 (24)
5. Row 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x6 (30)
6. Row 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) x6 (36)
7. Row 7: (5 sc, 1 inc) x6 (42)
8. Rows 8-11: 42 sc (4 rows)
9. Row 12: (5 sc, 1 dec) x6 (36)
10. Rows 13-14: 36 sc (2 rows)
11. Row 15: (4 sc, 1 dec) x6 (30)
12. Rows 16-17: 30 sc (2 rows)
13. Row 18: (3 sc, 1 dec) x6 (24)
14. Rows 19-20: 24 sc (2 rows)
15. Row 21: (2 sc, 1 dec) x6 (18)
16. Row 22: 18 sc (1 row)

Cut, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

Hind legs:

1. Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. Row 2: 6 inc (12)
3. Row 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x6 (18)
4. Row 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x6 (24)
5. Rows 5-6: 24 sc (2 rows)
6. Row 7: 6 sc, (1 sc, 1 dec) x4, 5 sc (20)
7. Row 8: 6 sc, 4 dec, 6 sc (16)
8. Row 9: 16 sc (1 row)

Stuff and leave a long yarn tail for sewing.

Front legs:

1. Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. Row 2: 6 inc (12)
3. Row 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x6 (18)
4. Rows 4-5: 18 sc (2 rows)
5. Row 6: 5 sc, 4 dec, 5 sc (14)
6. Row 7: 5 sc, 2 dec, 5 sc (12)
7. Row 8: 5 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc (11)
8. Rows 9-17: 11 sc (9 rows)

Stuff only halfway.

18. Row 18: 1 dec, 8 sc (you will skip 1 sc, do not work it) (9)

Join the two parts with 4 sc and leave a long yarn tail for sewing.

Bow:

Using pink yarn, make a magic ring and chain 2. Inside the ring, do: 2 ch, 2 dc, 2 ch, 1 sl st. Chain 2 again and continue: 2 dc, 2 ch, 1 sl st. Pull the yarn from the magic ring to close. Cut the yarn, leaving enough to wrap around the center of the bow, as shown in the picture. Tie a knot and cut, leaving yarn for sewing. Make another bow.

Head assembly:

Sew the ears onto row 8 of the head. Leave 18 sc of distance between the two ears. Sew the snout between rows 13 and 20 of the head. Put a bit of stuffing in the snout and close it. With the eyes in place, it will look like this.

Tie the yarn you just added with a contrasting color yarn; this will be important to mark with pins the next placement of yarn. Cut beige yarn the same way you cut the fluff. Place a pin on each side, following the previous ones.

First strands:

Place another pin a row above. You’ll use it later. Insert 4 more pins going up in the same direction, heading toward the top of the head. Repeat on the other side. Start adding the beige yarn throughout the marked region, starting from the bottom up. Repeat on the other side.

With the help of the crochet hook, find the middle and part the yarn like this. Make two pigtails. They will look like this until we start brushing them out. Mark with 6 pins alongside the last strands we placed. It will look like this. Repeat on the other side. It will look like this.

Mark with 4 pins around the eye, as close to it as you can. Go to the strands of fluff. Insert them in the spot marked by the pins. Repeat on the other side. Join 5 strands neatly. Place yarn of the same color as the head in the tapestry needle and insert it through the middle of the snout, exiting at a random point underneath. Center the strands on top of the snout, pulling the needle through the snout and securing the yarn. Place pins between rows 4 and 5, around the eye. Go back to the beige yarn, as we will now place it on the ears, marking 5 stitches above the ear seam. Repeat the same process for the other ear.

Tip:

Start with the ears, then the sides and snout, and lastly the middle section where it’s tied. Trim the fur at the bottom, leaving it straight like in the images.

Eye expression:

Insert the needle in a random point at the bottom of the head to create the expression for the eyes. Exit at the corner of the eye. Insert it in the top part, very close to the eye. Exit on the other side. Repeat the same procedure on this eye. Return to the starting point and tie off.

Bow sewing:

Sew the bow onto the head along with the fur. Use the slicker brush to make it neat. It will look like this.

Mouth embroidery:

First, untwist the black yarn from the Amigurumi soft skein (you can use any other yarn you have at home). You will only use one strand of the twist. Thread it through the tapestry needle. Insert it a stitch below the start of the nose. Exit at the same starting point and insert it at the closest stitch to the middle of the snout. Insert it in the middle of the lower stitch. Tie off the yarn. It will look like this. Exit at the same point where we started.

Body assembly:

Attention!

Each artisan has a different tension. It’s possible that your amigurumi will come out chunkier or thinner than mine. Therefore, you must first assemble the entire body with pins to make the necessary adjustments if it doesn’t sit in the correct position as in the model. Remember, if you want, you can do a different assembly. Use your imagination and don’t forget to have fun throughout the process!

Sew the body between rows 20 and 21 of the head, right above the 18 decreases. It will be centered like this. Sew the arms between rows 16 and 19 of the body, with 1 sc separating them. Sew the hind legs between rows 5 and 10 of the body, with 9 sc separating them. Glue the arms onto the body with liquid silicone glue. Sew the tail between rows 4 and 7.

Tail:

1. Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. Row 2: 6 inc (12)
3. Row 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x6 (18)
4. Row 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x6 (24)
5. Rows 5-7: 24 sc (3 rows)
6. Row 8: (2 sc, 1 dec) x6 (18)
7. Rows 9-11: 18 sc (3 rows)
8. Row 12: (1 sc, 1 dec) x6 (12)
9. Row 13: 12 sc (1 row)

Leave a long tail for sewing.

Finishing Touches:

Check all parts are securely sewn together. Ensure safety eyes and nose are firmly in place. Use a slicker brush to fluff the yarn on the head and body, creating a soft, even texture.

Final Assembly:

Position the head on the body and pin it in place. Once satisfied with the placement, sew the head to the body securely. Make sure all parts are aligned correctly. After that, attach the ears and ensure they are well positioned and securely sewn.

Tips:

• Always check the tension of your stitches; different yarns may require adjustments.
• Use contrasting yarn to mark placement for better visibility during assembly.
• Experiment with colors and patterns to personalize your amigurumi!

Conclusion:

Congratulations on completing your amigurumi project! Enjoy your new creation and feel free to share it with friends and family. Happy crocheting!