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Stitches (US convention)
* MR = Magic Ring
* st = stitch
sc = single crochet
inc = sc increase (invisible)
dec = sc decrease (invisible)
* dc = double crochet
* hdc = half double crochet
* ch = chain
* sl = slip stitch
* tr = treble crochet
* BLO = back loop only (corresponds to the inner
loop when working in rounds)
* FLO = front loop only (corresponds to the outer
loop when working in rounds)
* TD = at the beginning of a new row, don't add
the additional ch (*). Turn the work directly and start
working from the second stitch from hook, i.e. the second stitch on the row. In
this way, you'll perform a decrease at the beginning of the row.
* [1 = means that the stitches are to be done in
the same loop or stitch
Indications
* Rounds are worked with continuous rounds technique, apart
from the basket, which is worked in joined rounds
* When working in rows, work through the entire stitch, not
FLO or BLO (unless specified otherwise)
* If not indicated otherwise, each stitch must be made in
the next stitch or chain available
* The
additional
* After a chain, always work from second loop from hook (if
not indicated otherwise)
Tips
* Use stitch markers
* Count your stitches
* Work the body tight, hair and dress more loosely!
* The correct way of working in rounds is:
* If you are right-handed: clockwise keeping the hook
between you and the work
* If you are left-handed:
counterclockwise keeping the hook between you and the work
If you are left handed, all instructions and images should
be specular for you!
Material
* 2.0 mm hook (use this hook for everything)
* 3.5 mm hook (hair only)
8.0mm hook (basket only)
Stuffing (poly fiber fill or other)
* Yarn: I used YarnArt Jeans (color code indicated in
brackets)
* Red (26): hair and dress
* For Fragolinas sister I actually used nb 90 as a red!
Beige (07): skin
Mustard (84): seeds
Emerald (52): leaves
For the mouth: I've used Hobbii's
Rainbow lace
(Dark
red,
59), but
whatever lace yarn should work fine
* Some twine for the basket I can't tell which brand was
mine or how thick it was because it was bought in a supermarket I used a hook
size 8.0 to work it!
Note on the yarn
YarnArt Jeans is a yarn made to be worked with a 3 or 3.5 mm
hook (it comes only in 1 size, so you can't be wrong purchasing it). As usual
for amigurumis I've worked it using a hook 1 size smaller than indicated to
better work tight, thus avoiding holes in the crochet from which the stuffing
would be visible or fall through.
You should get a good result with this pattern as long as
you stick to one yarn brand and work it with a hook 1 size smaller than
indicated.
My advice is still not to pick a yarn much thicker than
indicated, to avoid a sloppy result: maximum 1 or 2 sizes bigger!
Note on
the eyes
Please note that the right size to use for the safety eyes
depends on the doll's dimensions! Don't purchase 10mm eyes if you're not sure
the dimensions of your doll will be similar to mine. My advice is to purchase a
box with
many different sizes, and use the one which suits better your doll.
Dimensions
Using the yarn and hook size indicated (and, most
importantly, working tight!!, the dimensions of the finished doll are 10x6cm.
Body
Work the entire body with beige yarn and 2.0 hook. Remember
to work slightly tighter than the other parts, it needs to be as
"compact" as possible!
Legs
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2-R11: 6 sc (6)
Make 2 legs. After making the first leg, pull out the yarn
and cut it. Don't cut the yarn after making the second leg instead, you'll move
on from here to merge the legs and proceed with the torso.
First, we join the legs:
R12: 3 sc in 2nd leg, ch 2, 6 sc in 1st leg, 2 sc in back of
the ch, 3 sc in 2nd leg (16)
R13: 2 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (18)
The two increases mark the booty!
R14- R15: 18 sc (18)
R16: 2 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (16)
Booty finished!
R17: (2 sc, dec) x 4 (12)
R18: 12 sc (12)
R19: (4 sc, dec) x 2 (10)
R20: (3 sc, dec) x 2 (8) R21: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6)
Neck
One round for the neck
R22: 6 sc (6)
Head
R23: 6 inc (12)
R24: 12 inc (24)
R25: (1 sc, inc) x 12 (36)
In R26, the 18 sc should be on the back (use the booty to
tell the front from the back). For this to be true, your stitch marker should
now (at the end or R25) be in the following position:
video tutorial on how to make the eyes embroidery in my
Instagram profile (soon, on Youtube as well).
- R30
Here below you find a schema for the embroidery of the mouth
and freckles.
The base for the mouth is actually a unique stroke, which is
then lowered by a second stitch.
If yours is close, you can simply continue with R26, no
reason to read the rest of this paragraph.
Otherwise, you can choose between the following
Option1: make some additional sc until you'll reach my same
position, and then proceed with R26. These sc won't be counted in any round.
Option2: distribute the stitches to be made in R26
differently so that to make the (1sc, inc) x 9 on the front and the 18 sc on
the back. As an example, your R26 could then become: (1 sc, inc) x 4, 18 sc,
(1 sc, inc) x 5 (45) or anything similar.
Option 2 is the optimal one because you don't end up adding
rounds or half-rounds to the head.
However, if you're a beginner option 1 might be easier and
it still gives a good result.
If you go with option 2, you should do the same at R29 as
well, where the seven (2 sc, dec) should stay on the front, and the 17 sc on
the back. If you went with option 1 instead, no further repositioning should be
needed!
R26: (1 sc, inc) x 6, 18 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 3 (45)
R29: (2 sc, dec) x 5, 17 sc, (2 sc, dec) x 2 (38)
R36: (17 sc, dec) x 2 (36)
Stop to place the safety eyes. The safety eyes should be
placed between R30 and R31, 8 st
R37: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
R38: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
R39: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
R40: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
R41: (6 dec) (6)
Arms
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2-R8: 6 sc (6)
Then, add: sl, TD, 2 sc, sl
This last part gives you the curvature for the shoulders.
Pull out the yarn and cut it, leaving a long
tail for sewing.
Make 2
Using a tapestry needle, pass a piece of yarn (the same used
for the hair) through all loops of the main chain, pull and make a knot. You
obtain a wig as in the following picture
Sew the arms
There's a video tutorial on my instagram profile on how to
do it!
Sew the wig on top of the head
Hair
Work with red yarn and 3.5 hook, This change of hook is very
important because it makes each hair larger and longer, so you'll' need less to
cover the head. Also, try to crochet intentionally loosely.
Start by making a chain long 11 (main chain) and crochet 1
hair in each loop of this chain.
Sc in next loop available of the main chain (second loop
from hook for the first hair), ch 14,
13 sc starting from second loop from hook of
The result looks like the following:
Then, sew each hair
THE HAIR #AS BEEN SENED HERE
Then, if you'd like, bend the tip of the hair and sew it in
place, to achieve the ""60 hairstyle" effect.
At the end, cut the tail left at the beginning, which should
pop out from the last stitch made.
Here below there's the schematic:
0x1
R29
R33
dc
Here's the result!
This is the tail left at the beginhing!
You should work over it as indicated and cut it at the end!
Make 5 separate leaves.
Sew them together in a circle.
The part to be sewed is the extremity where you did the last
stitch.
Fasten off and cut most of the tails. Leave the longest one
Stem and leaves
Work with emerald yarn and 2.0 hook, Remember not to work
too tight.
First, prepare 5 separate leaves.
Each leaf is:
R1: ch 6 (5)
R2: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, ch 2, sl in 2nd loop
from hook - keep working around the chain, work on top of the tail left at the
beginning - 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc R3: 1 sc in first st of R2, 1 sl in
second st or R2
Here's the result once the leoves hole been sewed together!
Insert your hook in the hole left in the middle of the
circle of leaves, and pull out the yarn to create a loop on your hook
Sew this part on top of the head of the doll
Using a tapestry needle, bring the end extremity of the same
tail on the same side of the work where the loop on your hook is. Doing this,
take care of not passing through the same hole where the loop comes out from,
or you'll destroy the loop created at the previous step. The aim is to have a
loop and a loose extremity in order to be able to crochet a chain.
Seeds
Last, embroider some seeds on the hair using a tapestry
needle and mustard yarn. No particular stitch is needed, you can just pass the
yarn across. Pay attention not to pull too much and to distribute the seeds
evenly
From here, make:
Row 1: chain 6 (5)
Row2: 2 hdc, 3 sc
Pull out the yarn, using the tapestry needle pass it back on
the other side of the leaves circle and fasten off.
Here below the result:
Make an embroidery with mustard yarn on the red part, as
made for the hair. Here's the overall result: the dress is itself shaped like a
strawberry!
Decorative leaves
You can prepare some decorative leaves to be attached to the
dress. They are very similar to the one made for the hairstyle, but they are
slightly smaller.
Work with emerald yarn and 2.0 hook. Work tight
R1: ch 5
R2: sc, dc, hdc, sc, ch2, sl, - work over the begin tail -
sc, hdc, dc, sc R3: sl in 1st st of R2
Make 2
Dress the doll
Put the dress on the doll and sew it on the back
Sew the two small leaves on the dress.
Dress
Base
Use a 2.0 hook. Remember not to work too tight.
Start working with emerald yarn.
We start working in rows, but we'll join the extremities
later on to start working in rounds.
Row 1: ch 13 (12)
Row2: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Row3: 2 sc, ch 1, skip 4, 5 sc, ch 1, skip 4, 3 sc (12)
Change to red yarn
Row4: (3 sc, inc) x 3 (15)
Row5: (4 sc, inc) x 3 (18)
Row6: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Join the extremities and start working in rounds
R7: 24 sc (24)
R8: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
R9: (4 sc, dec) x 3 (15)
R10: 15 sc (15)
Fasten off.
Strawberry
Work with red yarn and 2.0 hook. Work tight.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: 6 inc (12)
R3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
R5: 24 sc (24)
R6: (4 sc, dec) x 4 (20)
R7: 4 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 4 sc (18)
Start stuffing. Keep stuffing while closing up.
R8: (7 sc, dec) x 2 (16)
R9: 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 3 sc (14)
R10: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12)
R11: 2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc (10)
R12: (3 sc, dec) x 2 (8)
Stop to make an embroidery for the seeds as usual. It's
easier to do it now because you can still reach inside the work. The idea is
that, to make the embroidery, you can pass the needle inside and outside from
R12.
R3: (ch 5, 1 sc in 2nd loop from hook, 1sc, dc, sc, sc in
second next st of R2) x 6
Meens you skip 1 of R2!
R2D
R35
Xx
Stitch marker
Once done, pull out the tail left at the beginning in order
to get a loop on your hook
R13: 1 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 1 sc (6)
Pull out the yarn and cut it. Using a tapestry needle, pass
the tail left through all FL of R13, pull and make a knot. Hide the tail left
inside the strawberry.
Stem
Work with emerald yarn and 2.0 hook, Work tight. Leave a
long tail at the beginning.
R1: 6 sc in MR
As you did before, using a tapestry needle bring also on the
same side the end of the tail.
Make:
Rowl: ch 5
Row2: 2 dc starting from second loop from hook, 2 sc Pull
out the yarn
Make a knot between the begin and the end tail, fasten off
"cover" completely the stitch. If you look at your
work, you'll see that's the case!
Mount the strawberry
Sew the stem on top of the strawberry. Here's the result! So
yummy!
Basket
Work using twine and 8.0 hook.
This pattern is actually worked in continuous rounds! This
is why sometimes an additional ch pops out. I described the stitches needed. If
it shouldn't be clear enough, l'd suggest you to check online how to work using
this technique!
R1: ch 6
R2: (2 sc), 3 sc, [3 sc), 3 sc, 1 sl in the first sc made
for this R (12)
Note that the 1st st of R2 and the last one (the sl) count
as two different stitches, the sl should not
Here's a small schematic:
R1
R2D
As you did before, using a tapestry needle bring also on the
same side the end of the tail.
Make:
Rowl: ch 5
Row2: 2 dc starting from second loop from hook, 2 sc Pull
out the yarn
Make a knot between the begin and the end tail, fasten off
"cover" completely the stitch. If you look at your
work, you'll see that's the case!
Mount the strawberry
Sew the stem on top of the strawberry. Here's the result! So
yummy!
Basket
Work using twine and 8.0 hook.
This pattern is actually worked in continuous rounds! This
is why sometimes an additional ch pops out. I described the stitches needed. If
it shouldn't be clear enough, l'd suggest you to check online how to work using
this technique!
R1: ch 6
R2: (2 sc), 3 sc, [3 sc), 3 sc, 1 sl in the first sc made
for this R (12)
Note that the 1st st of R2 and the last one (the sl) count
as two different stitches, the sl should not
Here's a small schematic:
R1 →
R2D
Amigurumi Crochet Pattern
Stitches (US convention)
- MR = Magic Ring
- st = stitch
- sc = single crochet
- inc = sc increase (invisible)
- dec = sc decrease (invisible)
- dc = double crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- ch = chain
- sl = slip stitch
- tr = treble crochet
- BLO = back loop only (corresponds to the inner loop when working in rounds)
- FLO = front loop only (corresponds to the outer loop when working in rounds)
- TD = at the beginning of a new row, don't add the additional ch (*). Turn the work directly and start working from the second stitch from hook, i.e., the second stitch on the row. In this way, you'll perform a decrease at the beginning of the row.
- [1 = means that the stitches are to be done in the same loop or stitch
Indications
- Rounds are worked with continuous rounds technique, apart from the basket, which is worked in joined rounds.
- When working in rows, work through the entire stitch, not FLO or BLO (unless specified otherwise).
- If not indicated otherwise, each stitch must be made in the next stitch or chain available.
- The additional loop to be made at the beginning of each row is not counted between those indicated in the pattern. You should always add it (if not indicated otherwise) (*).
- After a chain, always work from the second loop from hook (if not indicated otherwise).
Tips
- Use stitch markers.
- Count your stitches.
- Work the body tight, hair and dress more loosely!
- The correct way of working in rounds is:
- If you are right-handed: clockwise keeping the hook between you and the work.
- If you are left-handed: counterclockwise keeping the hook between you and the work.
- If you are left-handed, all instructions and images should be specular for you!
Material
- 2.0 mm hook (use this hook for everything)
- 3.5 mm hook (hair only)
- 8.0 mm hook (basket only)
- Stuffing (poly fiber fill or other)
- Yarn: YarnArt Jeans (color code indicated in brackets)
- Red (26): hair and dress
- Beige (07): skin
- Mustard (84): seeds
- Emerald (52): leaves
- For the mouth: Hobbii's Rainbow lace (Dark red, 59), or any lace yarn
- Some twine for the basket (hook size 8.0 used)
Note on the Yarn
YarnArt Jeans is a yarn made to be worked with a 3 or 3.5 mm hook. As usual for amigurumis, I used a hook 1 size smaller than indicated to avoid holes. You should get a good result with this pattern as long as you stick to one yarn brand and work it with a hook 1 size smaller than indicated. Avoid using a yarn much thicker than indicated to avoid a sloppy result: maximum 1 or 2 sizes bigger!
Note on the Eyes
Please note that the right size for safety eyes depends on the doll's dimensions. Avoid purchasing 10mm eyes if you're not sure the dimensions of your doll will be similar to mine. My advice is to purchase a box with many different sizes and use the one that suits your doll best.
Dimensions
Using the yarn and hook size indicated (and, most importantly, working tight), the dimensions of the finished doll are 10x6 cm.
Body
Work the entire body with beige yarn and 2.0 hook. Remember to work slightly tighter than the other parts to keep it as "compact" as possible!
- Legs
- R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
- R2-R11: 6 sc (6)
Make 2 legs. After making the first leg, pull out the yarn and cut it. Don't cut the yarn after making the second leg; instead, you'll move on from here to merge the legs and proceed with the torso.
- Torso
- R12: 3 sc in 2nd leg, ch 2, 6 sc in 1st leg, 2 sc in back of the ch, 3 sc in 2nd leg (16)
- R13: 2 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (18)
- The two increases mark the booty!
- R14-R15: 18 sc (18)
- R16: 2 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (16)
- Booty finished!
- R17: (2 sc, dec) x 4 (12)
- R18: 12 sc (12)
- R19: (4 sc, dec) x 2 (10)
- R20: (3 sc, dec) x 2 (8)
- R21: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6)
- Neck
- R22: 6 sc (6)
- Head
- R23: 6 inc (12)
- R24: 12 inc (24)
- R25: (1 sc, inc) x 12 (36)
- In R26, the 18 sc should be on the back (use the booty to tell the front from the back). For this to be true, your stitch marker should now (at the end of R25) be in the following position:
- R26: (1 sc, inc) x 6, 18 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 3 (45)
- R29: (2 sc, dec) x 5, 17 sc, (2 sc, dec) x 2 (38)
- R30: (17 sc, dec) x 2 (36)
- R37: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
- R38: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
- R39: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
- R40: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
- R41: (6 dec) (6)
Pull out the yarn and cut it. Using a tapestry needle, pass the tail left through all the FL of R41. Pull and make a knot. Hide the tail inside the body of the doll.
Arms
- R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
- R2-R8: 6 sc (6)
- Then, add: sl, TD, 2 sc, sl
This last part gives you the curvature for the shoulders. Pull out the yarn and cut it, leaving a long tail for sewing. Make 2.
Hair
Using a tapestry needle, pass a piece of yarn (the same used for the hair) through all loops of the main chain, pull and make a knot. You obtain a wig as shown in the picture. Sew the arms @R20. Sew the wig on top of the head.
There's a video tutorial on my Instagram profile on how to do it!
Hair Styling
Work with red yarn and 3.5 hook. Start by making a chain long 11 (main chain) and crochet 1 hair in each loop of this chain. Sc in next loop available of the main chain (second loop from hook for the first hair), ch 14, 13 sc starting from second loop from hook of the chain.
Then, sew each hair. If you'd like, bend the tip of the hair and sew it in place to achieve the "60 hairstyle" effect. Cut the tail left at the beginning, which should pop out from the last stitch made.
Leaves
- Work with emerald yarn and 2.0 hook. Prepare 5 separate leaves.
- Each leaf is:
- R1: ch 6 (5)
- R2: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, ch 2, sl in 2nd loop from hook - keep working around the chain, work on top of the tail left at the beginning - 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc
- R3: 1 sc in first st of R2, 1 sl in second st of R2
- Sew them together in a circle. Insert your hook in the hole left in the middle of the circle of leaves, and pull out the yarn to create a loop on your hook. Sew this part on top of the head of the doll.
- Using a tapestry needle, bring the end extremity of the same tail on the same side of the work where the loop on your hook is. Doing this, take care not to pass through the same hole where the loop comes out from, or you'll destroy the loop created at the previous step.
Seeds
Embroidery some seeds on the hair using a tapestry needle and mustard yarn. No particular stitch is needed; you can just pass the yarn across. Pay attention not to pull too much and to distribute the seeds evenly.
Dress
Base
Use a 2.0 hook. Remember not to work too tight. Start working with emerald yarn.
- Row 1: ch 13 (12)
- Row 2: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
- Row 3: 2 sc, ch 1, skip 4, 5 sc, ch 1, skip 4, 3 sc (12)
- Change to red yarn
- Row 4: (3 sc, inc) x 3 (15)
- Row 5: (4 sc, inc) x 3 (18)
- Row 6: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Join the extremities and start working in rounds.
- R7: 24 sc (24)
- R8: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
- R9: (4 sc, dec) x 3 (15)
- R10: 15 sc (15)
Fasten off.
Strawberry
Work with red yarn and 2.0 hook. Work tight.
- R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
- R2: 6 inc (12)
- R3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
- R4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
- R5: 24 sc (24)
- R6: (4 sc, dec) x 4 (20)
- R7: 4 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 4 sc (18)
- Start stuffing. Keep stuffing while closing up.
- R8: (7 sc, dec) x 2 (16)
- R9: 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 3 sc (14)
- R10: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12)
- R11: 2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc (10)
- R12: (3 sc, dec) x 2 (8)
Stop to make an embroidery for the seeds as usual. It's easier to do it now because you can still reach inside the work. The idea is that, to make the embroidery, you can pass the needle inside and outside from R12.
Stem
Work with emerald yarn and 2.0 hook. Work tight. Leave a long tail at the beginning.
- R1: 6 sc in MR
- Row 1: ch 5
- Row 2: 2 dc starting from second loop from hook, 2 sc
Pull out the yarn. Make a knot between the beginning and the end tail, fasten off.
Basket
Work using twine and 8.0 hook. This pattern is worked in continuous rounds. If unclear, check online for the continuous rounds technique!
- R1: ch 6
- R2: (2 sc), 3 sc, [3 sc], 3 sc, 1 sl in the first sc made for this R (12)
Note that the 1st stitch of R2 and the last one (the sl) count as two different stitches; the sl should not be counted.
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